Paris Fashion Shows &
Trends
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The message from Parisian catwalks for the upcoming seasons was blatantly expressed: there is no more room for minimalism in the fashion world, no more room for austerity, restraint and rigorous attire. Women obviously grew tired of plain looks, dull neutrals and the absence of anything glamorous altogether. Instead, they want to feel feminine, seductive, elegant, sparkling, which automatically excludes the abstraction and low-key tones of fashion's minimalistic years.French designers were quick to correspond to this demand, and the result was a whole new different mood, defined by bold, |
| humorous and often exaggerated elements, explosions of colors, overloads of sequins and beadwork, numerous decorative details, wild mixes of genres, garish patterns and brash styles. Even the current bon-chic trend flirts with excess and indulges in the mix & match-mania of recent seasons, tending to appear understated but not uninspired, demure but not trivial, classic but modern as well. | |
| A breeze of almost scandalous opulence swept away simplicity, and glamour was redefined with touches of wit and irony, giving fashion the necessary -for its very survival - twist. Contemporary art was a major source of inspiration for a majority of designers, dictating all kinds of geometric and abstract patterns, while fashion's ever recurring nostalgic spirit turned this time to the 80's, with disco flashes, emphasized shoulders and sexy silhouettes, the elegant and sophisticated atmosphere of the 50's, with structured tailleurs and bon ton pleating, and borrowed accents even from the 20's, like redingotes and other |  |
| dandyish details. So whether discreet or flamboyant, aggressive or poetic, well-mannered or provocative, chic continues to be creative and fresh, very often matching opposite extremes in surprising harmonies and constantly in the search for new concepts. | |
| So now, first of all, fashion chooses color. Vibrant, shocking, exuberating colors that seem to have sprung out of firework explosions on the winter sky. They come in either total looks or in bold and dazzling combinations and contrasts with each other. A yellow fever invaded many shows and was evident in its every shade from lemon sherbet to rich orangy tones, while literally any pink or pink-related hue was to be seen, from bright fuchsias to mysterious purples. | |
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The same goes for the blue palette: there was blinding turquoise, Prussian blue and China blue, midnight blue and cobalt blue, and of course the ultra sophistication of blue-mauve. Metallic sheens work as the perfect complement to this kaleidoscopic canvas, ranging from the cold tones of silver and platinum, to the undisputedly predominant presence of gold. Gold is king for yet another season, pervading Lurex knits in the form of goldthread, covering fabrics with studs and goes all the way to even create leather trenchcoats. But since this is a season of extremes, the big comeback of black hardly looks as a surprise. |
| Still, the new black is quite different than his ancestor a few years back. Romantic and feminine, often decorated with lace, sequins or frills, it appears less dynamic and more nostalgic, even in its leather interpretations. In fact, we could define it as "aggressively old-fashioned", something that even more holds true for the little black dress, an all time classic piece, which is reinvented with lightness and returns elegantly sensual, far from its recent minimalistic versions. | |
| Another classic element, the mixture of black and white is back in vogue again, and finds its expression in numerous variations, from white as an accent on black to a whole range of graphic prints or two color combinations. Speaking of classics, and more specifically winter classics, there is perhaps nothing more traditional than the English mood in fabrics. Those perennial tweeds, herringbones, Glen checks and tartans, hound's-tooth and the lightest of cashmeres are once again in style and reign supreme. Sometimes in the bon ton mood, where they make tailored pant suits and coats, others in the |  |
| fashion's currently beloved androgynous look, where their manly, tough feel is paired with feminine elements, and often even accentuated by a twist of stylistic irony, which serves as a light up of their conservative role in fashion, all these wonderfully warm materials are once again here to stay. | |
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If exquisiteness and luxury is what describes those, this is multiplied when it comes to eveningwear. The widest possible variety of precious fabrics is there for the modern (perhaps spoiled?) woman to indulge to. Covered by clouds of sequins and crystals, often dripping with beadwork, lustrous and heavily ornamented, they make statements of opulence and pure diva glamour. Then they are the ethereal transparencies, almost invisible chiffon, fine tulle, evanescent muslin, layers and layers of see-throughs, which often reveal nudity and flutter nonchalantly around elongated silhouettes. |
| Lustrous silks, stiff taffetas and the always popular satin could not be absent from such a dazzling picture, adding to it their refined sheen. Any kind of ornamentation and decorative details belong to this atmosphere too. Embroidery and appliqué, whole cascades of frills and froufrou, feathers, boas and fur trimmings are –just to name a few – tools to achieve the stylish icon of an almost shameless luxury. | |
| However, in order to demonstrate fashion's playful and innovating spirit, embellished and luxurious evening fabrics are very often mixed with traditionally casual ones, and what a few years back would strike as a vulgar incompatibility, now looks fresh and hip, in fact it has a very trendy name too: cross dressing. But the seemingly unorthodox mixes don't stop there. French houses had always had a reputation of frivolity in the good sense and now they have a strong taste of humor as well, so it only seems natural that they so extensively favored the continuing mix & match mania, |
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| which dictates the wildest pairings of materials, styles, colors, patterns and anything conceivable by a designer's imagination. Today there seems nothing impossible to be combined with anything else, and to dispute that would simply mean a lack of wit and inspiration in fashion terms. | |
| There has always been a strong connection between fashion and art, and this time around contemporary art provides French designers with directions and ideas that find their expression in the territory of prints. Thus, the tendency is conspicuous towards various geometric patterns, and all kinds of abstracts on the whole, whether they are inspired by Modern Art, Op Art, Cubism or even Graffiti. | |
| Any type of linear, graphic design is in style, with a retro-psychedelic feel to it. Dots for instance, appear somewhat distorted and manipulated, while stripes are the season's must-wear and come horizontal, vertical, diagonal, zigzagged or in dizzying combinations with each other or other prints. Stylistic patterns are also hype for this season, including flowers, animals and other natural motifs, while the rave for logo prints continues (Chanel put its famous logo even on stockings).Chunky knits and luscious tricot are another of fashion's favorites for the cold season. The first are hand-woven, look rustic and are often |
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| matched with more delicate pieces in a stark contrast, while the latter comes in the form of Lurex, decorated with goldthread and various applications, encrustation and embellished motifs, and is worn all day through. Then we have a whole lot of asymmetries, which can be seen on hems, shoulders, cleavages, or shifting the weight on one side of the silhouette. | |
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Strapless and one-shoulder tops, drooping necklines and naked tummies are -for obvious reasons - preserved mainly for the evening, as do winter shorts, which come as a continuation of the summer's hot pants. Various pleats and plisse work as one of the keys for the bon-chic trend, along with demure dresses and knee-length skirts, bow-tie collars and headscarves, twin sets and immaculate tailoring.Belts, preferably metallic ones, bringing memories of the 60's, make an impressive new entry, while shoes are elegant and decorated, high and glamorous, and -here too- the 60's |
| accent comes as the return of platform soles. But the major novelty for now is funky colored tights and silk shimmering stockings, which add the finishing touch to fashion's playful and flashy moods.As a conclusion, French shows managed to charismatically blend diverse and opposing styles, such as elegance with extravagance, tradition with innovation, tough looks with romantic looks, manly with feminine, eveningwear with casual wear, demureness with humor, theatricality with austerity, and all that with the help of lots and lots of imagination, zest and- above all - the mood for exploring new exciting paths. | |
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